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Mid-Rise Scissor Lift & Engine Removal

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Old 04-22-2013, 03:55 PM
  #16  
f1rocks
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Randy,
Get the Maxjax. Beauty is you can take it down and store it if you're not using it. I've had mine for 15 months and absolutely love it with the low ceilings it was my only option.
Old 04-22-2013, 06:20 PM
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paradisenb
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Originally Posted by flatsics
OK
First off get one of these...
http://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Inf...31%39%38%33%29
It will make handling the engine/trans a piece of cake.

Secondly...
Ship your trans to Gairy Fairbanks, if he is still rebuilding transmissions.
He will fix it for a fair price and it will work properly.

Thirdly...
Install and enjoy.

Just trying to save you some time, and further frustration.
Thanks for the link, Doug. That unit sounds great. I was wondering about how I was going to steady the engine/trans combo.

You guys with the Max Jax. Did you reinforce the concrete in your garages? Most residential concrete is 2500 PSI and we are lucky if it is 4" thick.

I went by Greg Smith's Auto today and looked at the lift I linked to. No go. Looks like Max Jax may be the best option until I build the workshop.

Chris, I bet it was fun working from that vantage point. That was where I was heading. I use jackstands for typical work, but I don't like it. Hard to get leverage.
Old 04-22-2013, 06:48 PM
  #18  
Plavan
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I looked at the Maxjax, but passed- I have a 3 car garage and want to keep it a 3 car when I am working on something on the lift. The Maxjax takes up too much room on the sides to park other cars in the garage. Then there is that concrete thing...
I bought a midrise lift and love it. I can drop motors, from oil drain to sitting on a cart in 1:15 min solo. Best tool I have ever bought.

Really think about how you will use the Maxjax- The midrise lift does not take away any space, it stays put, and you can leave your car on it and still park other cars near it. No Assembly Required
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Old 04-22-2013, 06:52 PM
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paradisenb
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Which one do you have, Chad?
Old 04-22-2013, 07:06 PM
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Plavan
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Originally Posted by PorscheDoc
Modifications to my Bendpak. Works great for R&R motors/trans.
http://rennsportkc.com/modifying-ben...for-a-porsche/
Great that you did that, but it seems unnecessary. Instead, why not turn the car around, or turn the lift around to accomplish the same thing? There is no bar on the other side of what you modified, and you can still drop the motor and tranny together. The Hydraulic cylinders are not in the way, especially if you drop the whole assembly on a cart. There is no "Front" or "Back" to a midrise lift.

Disclaimer: I'm not a genius, it took me two engine drops to figure out if I turned the car around the engine drop would be faster/easier....and it was!

I can understand if you wanted the control unit on one side and not the other.

Regardless, you did a great job.

Last edited by Plavan; 04-22-2013 at 08:21 PM.
Old 04-22-2013, 07:11 PM
  #21  
Plavan
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Originally Posted by paradisenb
Which one do you have, Chad?
I bought my Mid Rise from Greg Smith Equipment. I have had it around 4 years now.

Best tool you will ever buy. No problems at all with mine. I use it all the time.
Old 04-22-2013, 07:21 PM
  #22  
paradisenb
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Greg's has 2 styles of Mid-Rise lifts. One has wide planks you drive on and the other has the 2 wheels that roll on the floor-edit- and arms like a 2 post.

You have any pix of your lift you could post, Chad?
Old 04-22-2013, 07:30 PM
  #23  
Lemming
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Don't forget, with the scissors lift you will need to have wooden ramps to get the car over it. These are a pain in the a$$ when working on the car and are a pain to move and store as well. If you look at the pic above, you will see the types of ramps that I'm talking about.
Old 04-22-2013, 07:56 PM
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Plavan
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I used 2 2x10's on each side, and covered them with grey indoor outdoor carpet. Mine have the 2 wheels on one side.
Lemming- Not sure what you mean by ramps get in the way. Mine don't, even while working on the car. No more so that the Maxjax pillars. The car sits parked on the ramps, no need to store them. I have not moved them since I got the lift 4 years ago.
When I'm racing, and the car is not in the garage, my Fiancée drives her Q5 up on them so she can park inside the garage - priorities, Porsches running or not stay inside.
Old 04-23-2013, 09:37 AM
  #25  
Lemming
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Originally Posted by Plavan
Lemming- Not sure what you mean by ramps get in the way. Mine don't, even while working on the car. No more so that the Maxjax pillars. The car sits parked on the ramps, no need to store them. I have not moved them since I got the lift 4 years ago.
I use a similar set up with 2x10's and when not working on the car they are fine. However, when the car is in the air and I am doing repairs/modifications, they are a complete nuisance. I do the majority of my car work on a roller seat and the ramps are always in the way. Thus, when doing major mods/repairs I move the ramps and have to store them.
Old 04-23-2013, 09:55 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by paradisenb
I went by Greg Smith's Auto today and looked at the lift I linked to. No go. Looks like Max Jax may be the best option until I build the workshop.
Why was it a no go? I have been considering one of these myself, but don't have a local place to see it...curious on your impression of the lift...
Old 04-23-2013, 10:10 AM
  #27  
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The lift a Greg's has wide and long planks that the car drives onto. The width makes access to some areas complicated at best and inaccessible at worst.
I am revisiting the idea of the scissor with the 2 post style arms and the 2 rolling wheels for the base. I would install a metal track on the floor for the wheels to travel on so they don't destroy the floor coating.
Old 04-23-2013, 10:23 AM
  #28  
f1rocks
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Originally Posted by paradisenb
You guys with the Max Jax. Did you reinforce the concrete in your garages? Most residential concrete is 2500 PSI and we are lucky if it is 4" thick.
I did not reinforce the concrete, it is right at 4" thick and original slab circa 1986. I am watching for any degradation but it is fine.

Chad,
I have a three car garage and take one vertical unit down when I'm not using it to allow me full access to the bay. It takes me less than 5 minutes to attach and retorque the assembly, maybe 1 minute to reconnect the hydraulics and bleed the lines.
Old 06-16-2013, 06:33 PM
  #29  
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Well, I bought a scissor from Greg Smith's. Perfect for my environment. Works exceptionally well.
First thing I did with it was drop my engine and trans. I sent the trans out for repair. I am looking for a spare 915 trans. That one I will take apart and explore the possibilities for rebuilding myself.
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Old 06-17-2013, 11:50 AM
  #30  
Plavan
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It will be the best tool you have ever bought.

BTW- Did you use the side without the bar when you did the engine drop? (Looks like it)


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